 |
The Budgerigar Council of Victoria Inc (A10055P) |
|
The Budgerigar Council of Victoria Inc (A10055P) |
|
The Pleasure Of Breeding Budgerigars
Having decided to breed budgerigars it is time to decide on which way is best for you. Some people colony breed by just hanging a number of nest boxes in a flight full of budgerigars. This can be quite a successful way to breed them. It can increase your stock if that is what you want. It does mean however that although you know which hen is the mother of certain chicks, you do not know which cock bird has fathered them. A hen may have been tread by a number of cock birds while flying in the flight. As she finds a nest box and finds a mate the eggs she lays will most likely have be fertilized by another cock bird . Unless there is a striking resemblance to the cock bird she is with and even this is not 100% proof, then you will never know which cock bird is the father. If you want to be certain of the parentage the it is best to breed birds , one pair to one cage.
The Nest Box
When you start, decide which type of nest box you would like to use. There are basically two types. One that goes inside the cage and one that goes out side. They should be about 9x8x6 inches in size. The inside nest box can be hung up in the corner of the cage or just placed on the floor of the cage. It can have one side which can be partly or completely removed for inspection of the chicks or it can have a hinged door which serves the same purpose. Some people raise their nest boxes a couple of inches off the ground so that the chicks can hide underneath when they leave the protection of the nest box. This is a very good idea. When a parent bird attacks a chick it can be so quick that you can not do nothing to prevent it. At least with this raised platform the chicks have a chance to hide underneath.
The second type can be fixed onto the outside of the cage. It must be firmly fixed so that if knocked it will not fall off. It can be made only of one box with a hinged or removable door for inspection, or it can be made from two boxes. One box fits inside the other. The inside box is easily removed when you wish to inspect the nest. You can remove it to a safe working area to check eggs or ring chicks. When you are finished you simply replace it back inside the first box. This type of box also has an advantage of that you are able to change the inside box for a clean one if necessary, but care must be taken not to upset the hen. Concaves and sawdust/woodshavings can be used with all types of boxes. The choice is yours.
Hygiene
Preparing you cage is an important thing. Over the next few weeks this cage is going to get very dirty. You must be able to clean it with as little disturbance as possible. One way to do this is to place paper on the floor. When it is time to clean the cage remove the seed pots and very carefully lift the nest box just a fraction. Slide the old paper out and slide the new in. This can be quite difficult. I like to use a layer of wood shavings on the bottom of the cage. The dirty droppings can be removed and the wood shavings topped up. Before the birds are places into the cage it is wise to make the following available. Parentage
When it is time to breed your budgerigars, if the hen has been flying in the flight with more than the cock and you wish to know the parentage of the chicks, then it is wise to separate her for about three weeks before you wish to breed. This will give time for any sperm she may be carrying from other cock birds to be rendered useless. After this time place both birds providing they are in breeding condition into the breeding cage you have selected. The hen will most likely show interest in the nest box within hours of being placed in the cage. She will probably have been in the nest box within the first two days. Sometimes it takes a little longer depending on the condition she is in. If after two to three weeks , she has not been in then I would consider changing her for another hen. Keeping in mind the points raised above.
The Eggs
All being well the hen should start to lay about eight to ten days after she has been in the nest box. Her droppings will become very loose and watery and she will then lay her first egg. Some young hens are not quite sure what is happening and the odd time they will lay the egg on the cage floor. If this happens, place the egg in the box. The hen will most likely throw it out but it gets her attention in the box and the next egg will probably be laid inside.
Once the eggs are laid, you can mark them if you choose, it takes 18 days for the first to hatch. After about six or seven days if you shine a light beside the egg you can tell if it is fertile. You will be able to see the red veins running through the egg as the chick starts to form. If the eggs are fertile and the eighteen days are over and they have not started to hatch, DO not be to quick to discard them. Sometimes a hen will not start to sit her eggs properly for the first few days or until she has two or three eggs and this can result in the eggs hatching late. If it is cold sometimes this also makes them a day or two late. When an egg is fertile it usually take on a pearly white appearance . If the colour of them is still good then and they have not discoloured then give them a few days extra.
Now that you have your first chicks in the nest you will see them grow rapidly. If you are going to use closed rings on your chicks then this will need to be done at about five to ten days depending on the size of them. Once this is done then it is just a case of inspecting your nest boxes daily to see that all is well. Check that a ring has not come off a chick, this sometimes happens. Inspect you chicks making sure that they are well fed and that their beak is not clogged with dried food which will prevent the hen from feeding them properly. Check that their feet are clean and that there is no dirt accumulating around the ring if you have used one. If it has soften any dirt before trying to remove it. If you try to remove it whilst it is hard this could result in damaging the chick.
Once your chicks are about 28 days old they start to get inquisitive and want to leave the protection of the nest box. This is a dangerous time for them. A cock bird sees a chick on the cage floor and sometimes sees it as a threat. It can quite often attack the chick inflicting such injury on them that they will die within hours of the attack. Sometimes a hen who is getting ready to lay a second round of eggs will also attack a chick. It is wise at this time to have a platform of sorts for the chicks to hide under. Once the chicks are out of the box and are quite happily on the cage floor the cock bird will continue to feed them from there. The hen will most likely go on to lay a second round of eggs at this point. If you take notice you will find that there is always 2 months between rounds of eggs. The first egg being laid on the same date of the month only two months apart. At the age of 38 days, the chicks will be ready to leave their parents.
Leaving the nest
Great care must be taken at this stage to see if a chick is feeding itself properly. Millet spray should be made available because this is easy for the chick to eat. Once they are eating and have been removed from their parents, keep a close eye on them for at least 2 weeks. If a chick is not feeding properly then it can take a few days for the problem to show itself and by that time it is sometimes to late to save them. Make sure you have drinking water within reach. Sometimes a young chick will not get up on the perch for a few days and will often be seen to sit in the corner of the cage.
The last thing you should do when removing the chicks is, bring your records up to date. The last thing you want is a Best in Show and not knowing where it has been breed from.
|